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Tips on Starting Seeds
Starting Seedlings It is lots of fun to watch seeds grow up into healthy herbs. Here are a few hints to make starting your own seeds all the more successful. Start seeds in a loose, sterilized potting mix. It should contain perilite or vermiculite for drainage and aeration of the soil. You don't want to start with bugs, so sterilized soil is essential. I usually wet the soil thoroughly, sprinkle seeds on top, then press them in lightly. Another option is the use of peat pellets, which are compressed peat in a stocking. When soaked in water, these swell to form a self contained plug into which seeds can be sown. Peat pellets are great because they make transplanting super easy, allow for very good air circulation around the roots, and are easy to water. I like to place the expanded pellets in a saucer and water from the bottom.
A typical seed pack contains more seeds than you'll want plants, so save some seeds for later sowing. Most herb seeds can be stored for several years, ideally in the freezer. Seedlings should be started under grow lights, with the bulbs only a few inches above the young plants. The standard cool white fluorescent bulb provides an ideal light spectrum for seedlings. If you don't want to set up lights, a very sunny window will work. Turn the pots every few days so as to reduce stretching towards the window.
Annual herbs started on the windowsill should be sown in April or even early may, when daylight hours are long enough to support their development. Most annual herbs grow quickly and easily from seed.
Perennials may be much slower to germinate, or require pre-chilling in the fridge for several weeks before planting. A 10-52-10 fertilizer is specially formulated for root growth, perfect for young seedlings.
Usually chemical fertilizer is applied after the first set of true leaves appear. Liquid seaweed fertilizer is known to promote better seed germination, root formation and reduced disease in seed trays. Seaweed fertilizer should be applied starting from the first watering, before seeds have even germinated. Many herbs develop more quickly if sown with 5 - 15 seeds per plug or peat pellet. Thin seedlings only if they get too crowded.
Transplant into larger containers or the garden once roots have fully penetrated the growing medium.
Seed Starting Tips - updated Sometimes gardeners tell us they are frustrated with starting seeds. Perhaps you've experienced seedlings that stretch and get leggy, or simply 'damp off' - meaning they flop over and wilt. That's no fun! However, there are some simple strategies to prevent these frustrations, and reward you with satisfaction of having raised your own seedlings.
Timing Most seeds require long, strong daylight in order to develop healthy stems. This is especially true of annuals. While it is tempting to start these seeds in early spring, the best practice is to hold off until April or even early May! Some people even choose to direct seed annuals once the ground has warmed up in early June. The amazing thing is that annual herb seedlings started at any of these dates will all catch up with one another by the time late June comes around - their rate of growth is so keyed into the amount of daylight they are getting. For those gardeners who can't wait to have fresh basil for their tomato sandwiches, a simple fluorescent grow light will transform you seed starting experience. The set-up costs are low ($20-$40), the energy used is very insignificant, and you'll reuse the equipment year after year. The benefit is that you can start and maintain herbs of all kinds any time of the year! If patience is not your virtue, and lights are not going to happen, there is still hope! Perennial seeds (zones 1 - 11) do like (even need) to be started as early as January, February, and March. Everything about a perennial's life cycle is prolonged: they grow slowly but surely, usually flower in their second year, and live many seasons. Some favourite perennial herbs to start now are English Thyme, Echinacea, Lemon Grass, Lemon Balm, and Greek Oregano. These seedlings do not typically become leggy when started in the windowsill, provided it is a bright one.
Bottom Heat The germination time and vigour of all common seeds is much improved when started in a warm location. Room temperature is not adequate, especially since it is much cooler near a window. The top of the fridge is a nice location (the seedlings don't require direct light until they germinate), as most fridges are always venting heat. Simple heating pads (horticultural or the one's for easing back pain) are even better, as the seedlings can germinate and start to grow with perfect bottom heat. Beyond germinating faster, bottom heat encourages very strong initial root formation; healthy roots equals healthy plants above the soil line. The stronger the seedling, the less chance of disease such as damping off.
Organic Fertilizer Seed development is an action packed process! Just imagine, the little seed's potential is activated by adding water and in a couple of weeks it has a a strong root system, stems, true leaves, and is on its way. This requires nourishment, and organic fertilizers offer advantages over soluble (chemical) fertilizers. Most seed starting mediums are very neutral - seeding soils and peat pellets have no nutrients for the seedling to feed on until we add fertilizer. Organic fertilizers such as Sea Magic are kelp based, which provides the right nutrition for strong root development, while providing antibacterial and anti fungal protection against the awful damping off disease. These fertilizers also encourage short, sturdy seedlings, rather than lanky, over grown seedlings. Once the seedlings have started to establish, organic choices such as Total Nourish provide a balanced nutrition while stimulating enzyme development in the root system (chemical fertilizers deaden soil enzymes). A living soil system (stimulated by healthy root enzymes) functions like a well balanced digestive system,efficiently breaking down nutrients available in the soil working and working in relationship with the rest of the plant in order to flourish.
Air Circulation Outdoor plants benefit from great air circulation, which very effectively discourages fungal and bacterial diseases from effecting plant health. Indoors - and especially when starting seeds - it is crucial that seedlings are provided good air circulation. Starting seedlings in cell packs or peat pellets, rather than in larger pots or open flats, allows each seedling breathing room. We do recommend planting several seeds in each cell or peat pellet (they will grow into a nice healthy clump), but do not recommend seeding one big pot or flat of seedlings - alas this was that way people often seeded in the past, almost assuring some occurrence of disease problems. The mini greenhouse kits all-so-common these days are also bad for restricting air circulation: if you do use one of these, lift the plastic cover off for at least a 1 per day, allowing fresh air to circulate among the seedlings, and the soil to dry out.
Watering Finally, watering is frequently mentioned as an issue by seed starters. The soil or peat pellet needs to be fully hydrated, without remaining soggy. If you find your seed starting medium is staying wet after a couple of days, you need to move your seedlings to a warmer location, and be sure they have fresh air circulating. Following the suggestions from above should help with keeping your seedlings properly watered - bottom heat, healthy root development, and good air circulation will help the soil dry out appropriately, so that you can feel confident you are not over watering. On the flip side, check on your seedlings every day to be sure they are getting enough water. We hope this answers some questions, and allows anyone who has been frustrated by starting seeds in the past the opportunity to succeed with this rewarding process!
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